I was immerse in a surf trip for 12 days without knowing at all what to expect. I have never, ever surfed in my life and the thought of a rough ocean gives me the creeps, but I got involved in the adventure not precisely cause of the surf, but then I was, amongst ONLY surfers and the adventure was to say the least… unexpected.
Many of the things I did during this trip were not on the same lane that I usually travel, or at least not on the same lane that I’ve been traveling like for the past 10 years. I realized all ages surfers travel this way: not knowing what to expect, not knowing were to stay, not knowing what will happen tomorrow, sometimes completely off the grill, cause they live the waves exactly as they come and they enjoy them EXACTLY as they come, but above all, as if this good waves were exactly the last good ones they will see for the rest of the season. So they get up extremely early in the morning for a surf at 5-6 am, and they get back to their accommodations as soon as the body cannot deal with the hunger any more, they have a small breakfast that they usually prepare themselves, and wait till they are ready again to get the GOOD WAVES. A visit to the ocean 2 or 3 times a day sounds about right for them.
I realized that they live life to the fullest each day, day by day. Falling from the wave, getting up again and again till they can ride it and then they paddle again, they walk again, and jump into the water again, and again and again, and again.
Most of this people work hard a regular job that they squeeeeeze till the last breath so they’ll have money to travel and surf to wherever the waves take them. I thought I traveled a lot, but damn you should talk to this people, not a single one of them has an empty passport, dozens of countries visited, for the GOOD WAVES, some of them speak many languages including the crazy surf lingo that it is absolutely imposible to understand if you are not into surfing, as well as a set of crazy rules in the water that everyone talks about cause they are always broken by a few, and also, an endless list of nationalities blend in the water, a cornucopia of languages is spoken in and outside of it, and in there every man and girl paddles for itself.
I found myself been an outcast in the water, all I could do was swim and wait, so I got out of it, meditated, ran, practice yoga, walk, enjoy the scenery, read. When people found out I wasn’t a surfer they all made a weird face and ask: -what do you do here then?- But even though I wasn’t a surfer what did happen was that I got adopted by them all, the late night talks were an absolute delight, as well as the food and beer, and my God did I laughed, I laughed till I couldn’t deal with it any more. And even though I couldn’t understand whenever the conversation drifted to surf, I found myself immerse in this community that open their hearts and lives and sometimes souls to me as much as I did too.
I am extremely grateful I was involved in this experience, with all it’s ups and downs, with all it’s strange places and spaces, with all of the Mexico I have never heard of!
MY GOD! how many surf beaches can there be in out coasts?! and the astonishing beauty of them! This trip made me see a part of me I hardly see, it was a trip of introspection and self awareness and I’m so thankful above all for the places I saw and the people I meet that I know now will be a part of my life from now on and hopefully for a long time.
Will I ever be a surfer? doubt it. But did I get the Good Waves… I sure did.
Thank you all: Thank you Owen, Phillipe, Yhonathan, Gastón, Ellie, Sarah, Belen, Austin, Mitchel, Jana, David, Alex, Marcelo, Leonardo, Yaron, Katherine, Miguel, Raúl, Olie and Chris. For the time, the beers, the tips, the patience, the card games, the hugs, the kisses, the rides, the love. May you always have Good Waves wherever you go.